CYCLING THE ROCKIES TO CALGARY!

cycling the Rockies to Calgary

Michael’s write up about cycling the Rockies to Calgary during our cycle trip across Canada in Summer 2016. Click here to read Kelly’s write up about cycling the Rockies to Calgary, and to the start of the Prairies!

THE ROCKIES TO COWBOY COUNTRY

Hello Rockies!

After a pretty harsh introduction to cycling the Rockies to Calgary that involved me crashing my bike like a clown and mangling up my once devilishly handsome ankle, we decided a bit of a rest was in order as we were both exhausted and sick of having our bums glued to bicycles. We enjoyed the spectacular scenery on the way into Jasper national park, but were dismayed to see that all campsites were marked as ‘full’ on the road signs. No room at the inn for smelly cyclists.

The despair didn’t last long though as when we eventually arrived at the first campsite we found out that only the sites for the big ugly R.Vs (cheat mobiles) were full, but hiker / biker walk in sites were available! Yay! A shower and a chance to clean my filthy greasy wound!

Jasper was a nice town, appeared to be purely for tourists but still had some charm and most importantly; an all you can eat Indian buffet!!! Hungry vegetarian cyclists are the Indian buffets worst enemy and only known natural predator in the wild. We ripped it apart and left no chickpea or naan bread unchewed. We also severely savaged the Jasper brewing companies tasting platter before shakily riding back to camp to pass out before it began raining yet again.

[ctt template=”8″ link=”ZSe5d” via=”yes” nofollow=”yes”]Hungry vegetarian cyclists are the Indian buffets worst enemy and only known natural predator in the wild. [/ctt]

After a day off the bikes and a short hike we were on the road again cycling the Rockies to Calgary, via the amazing Icefields parkway towards Banff….and back into the rain.

There was no relief, I think it had rained pretty much everyday since we left Vancouver, but the scenery was stunning with plenty of waterfalls, glaciers and excuses to hop off the bikes and look around along the way. We even spotted a bear doing a happy little jig across the road at one point.

Flying down the extremely steep Sunwapta mountain pass was a pretty terrifying experience as my hands were so numb from the freezing wind and rain that I was having trouble squeezing the brakes. Brakes can be important for a cyclist when riding down a mountain by the way.

The scenery approaching Banff national park was jaw droppingly beautiful, around Bow lake and near the Icefields park centre were particular highlights and I’m definitely glad we took the time to get off the bikes and walk out to the edge of one of the Glaciers. Avoid the tourist trap that is the Icefields park centre though, huge masses of tourists jostling there way off tour buses to pay $6 for a coffee and $5 for a cookie. We stuck to our gourmet diet of granola bars and Nalgene bottle coffee for this stretch to stop our budget getting sodomised.

We had some pretty amazing camp sites along the way and as it is illegal and actually enforced that there is absolutely no wild camping allowed within the parks, we stayed in official government run sites in the Rockies so did get the luxury of a shower and some shelter with wood stoves in some spots which was kind of a nice change….but it still kept raining.

Cycling the rockies and the icefields parkway
Making it to the Icefields Parkway!

We rolled into the ultra touristy Lake Louise area after a few days and gorged ourselves at the bakery and filled our bellies with the warm fuzzy goodness of rum and hot chocolate around the campsite to try and forget about the relentless punishing rain.

On a ‘rest’ day we thought we’d take a leisurely ride to check out Lake Louise. It had been sunny all morning until it came time for us to ride the 4km basically vertically uphill from the campsite when mother nature decided we hadn’t experienced enough wet weather recently so turned on a torrential downpour for us. We pretty much rode up a river to get to a lake to battle with other soggy holidaymakers to get a snap of Lake Louise in all its moist glory. It was a pretty place, but I think the scenery and smaller crowds around Bow lake made that a bit more enjoyable, still worth a trip to check out though.

The amazing views and stunning cycling along the Rockies towards Banff town and into Canmore where we had a Warmshowers host called Jeff to stay with.

We had lunch and a coffee break by the river in Banff (where it of course pissed down) before taking the amazing ‘legacy trail’ two-lane bike path all the way from Banff to Canmore, which was one of the highlight cycle days for me so far. It was pretty special being able to fly along side the main highway surrounded by stunning mountain ranges in every direction without fear of being run off the road by an accountant called Bill on holiday from Winnipeg in a Winnebago roughly the same size as a small eastern European country that he has no idea how to control.

The legendary Jeff and his lovely wife Paula fed us to bursting point and filled us with beer and helped massively with planning the next leg of journey telling us all about which roads to take, which to avoid and which towns were best for hungry cyclists!

After a couple of pleasant nights feeling like human beings and enjoying laughing at the rain from inside a nice warm house it was time to roll on to Calgary and the stampede! Yeehaw! We even got escorted out of town by Jeff who rode with us for about 20km to show us the right road to take!

cycling the rockies
Cycling the Rockies to Calgary

With all of our dramas at the start of the trip taking Kelly’s bike back we lost a couple of days and were now in a race to reach Calgary in time for the last day of the famous Calgary stampede to watch the cow Olympics or whatever the shit a stampede is.

We had managed to claw our way back on track, even through the Rockies and were going to make it in time for the stampede! So we smashed out a 110 km day through an insane downpour on the highway that basically turned into a full blown flood. We were forced to seek shelter at a farmer’s market where a lovely local lady cheered us up by giving us a bag of carrots as I think she felt pity for the two very wet cycling bums. Small acts of kindness like this can really make your day when you’re riding! Plus it’s nice to have something to sex up your traditional meal of pesto pasta a bit by throwing some fresh veg in the mix!

[ctt template=”8″ link=”hU9Af” via=”yes” nofollow=”yes”]Small acts of kindness like this can really make your day when you’re riding! [/ctt]

We made it cycling the Rockies to Calgary!!!

After several weeks stampeding against the clock to get there before the festivities finished, we had actually arrived in time to use our tickets that we purchased months ago! Just after we got to the city, a freak hailstorm broke out which we got to enjoy from the warm comfort of a swanky airbnb while sipping rum and munching free carrots before heading out for an evening of chuck wagon races! Yeehaw doggy!!

It was an incredibly satisfying feeling knowing we had made up for lost time and managed to get into town for the stampede…I have absolutely no idea what the fuck was going on during the chuck wagon races, but a good time was had by all and they had beer and funny hats. What more could you want?
Prior to the races we also wandered around the grounds and looked at all the tacky shite for sale and randomly bumped into a First Nations guy that we had met two days previously cycling through a reservation on the way to Calgary! Pretty bizarre experience being in a city where you know absolutely nobody and attending a very busy major international event only to bump into someone you met in a different part of the province days earlier!

So after all the dramas at the beginning of the trip we had achieved something we had basically thought impossible and made it to the stampede in time!!! To treat ourselves we found the swankiest (cheapest) breakfast buffet in town and swarmed all over it like a pair of savage Canadian deer flies sucking its prey dry of blood. Our prey happened to be French toast and waffles; way better than deer blood.

The waiters in this particularly trendy little café seemed appalled at the sheer volume of food we were able to consume and attempted to bring us the bill after a mere two plates! Hahaha! Get the fuck out of town my friend, come back when the chef is broken and sobbing on the floor because he misses his family and wants to go home; we are cycle tourists and we’re in this buffet game for the long haul!!

We enjoyed our couple of nights in Calgary and were anxious to see what the road ahead held for us! Would the flatness of the prairies be easy after the cycling the Rockies to Calgary? Will we eventually drown in the constant rain? Will the Canadian Mounties chase us down and have us hung for crimes against buffet humanity? All these questions and more will be answered in the next boring installment of this blog where we tackle Saskatchewan head on and wrestle it into submission like the little prairie dog it is!! Or we get run over by Bill in his Winnebago, whichever comes first.

If you’re planning for first cycle tour, then check out these resources for cycle touring to help with your planning.

bow lake: cycling the Rockies to Calgary
The Rockies were absolutely stunning – despite all the rain!

Canada Cycle Route Trip Notes: 2016

pedalling the Prairies

Our Canada Cycle Route

When: June – October 2016

Total kilometres: 7000km

Direction: West to East (we still had headwinds)

For more stats click here.

I’ve copied the ‘Canada Cycle Route‘ notes idea and layout from one of our warmshowers host, Peggy. She created a similar page outlining her 2015 trip, which I found really helpful. I thought it was a great idea. So, I thought I’d share our route information to help others plan their trips across Canada. Hopefully this will also provide some security to anyone that is a bit apprehensive about cycle touring.

I’ve also just finished an ebook called, “Cycling Canada” Coast-to-Coast: Trip Notes” which has route and province notes, maps (please notes these are not GPS or interactive maps), resources, recommended bike stores across Canada, plus any other tips or information I’ve picked up along the way that I think others might find helpful. The book is written based on our cycle trip, so with fully loaded cycle tourists in mind. If you do download the book, please let me know if you have any feedback or issues with it. Publishing ebooks is something completely new to me. It took me a long time to put together, but it is the first edition, so any honest feedback is greatly appreciated. Currently the book is only available on Amazon and can be found hereI am working on a second edition, so any feedback is definitely appreciated. Thanks!

Feel free to get in contact if you have any other questions about cycle touring or cycling across Canada.

canada cycle route, Our final cycle route across Canada
Our final cycle route across Canada
RouteRoad QualityCampingOther notes
Start: Vancouver

Check out our Vancouver City Guide!

British Columbia
Canada cycle route
High bike theft in Vancouver. Keep an eye on your bikes.
Hwy 99 southBusy. Good, wide hard shoulder.--There are plenty of cycle paths in Vancouver. You can easily hop on a cycle path to get near the outskirts of the city or onto the 99.
** Another option: Hwy 99 North (Sea to Sky hwy). I’ve only driven this route, never cycled it, but it is absolutely stunning. The route will take you through Squamish, Whistler, Pemberton, Lillooet. You can then make your way to Kamloops from there (I’ve never been on the road between Lillooet and Kamloops so can’t comment on the condition).Busy! Good road with a wide hard shoulder for the most part. The hard shoulder does narrow in sections. This route is more mountainous than the route we took, so expect more mountain passes to cycle. It is also slightly longer.There’s a pretty cool campsite at the bottom of the Chief in Squamish. Good spot for hiking (if your legs are up to it).--
Cut across to hwy 15 and onto 4 ave, which leads to 0 ave (I would instead recommend getting on 8 ave from hwy 15, and cutting down to 0 ave around 200 st or staying on 8 ave the rest of the way).Once on 0 ave, less traffic, small hard shoulder. A few hills from hwy 15 to 200 st.--If you stop on 0 ave, you may have the border police check up on you. They tend to be pretty friendly though. There are a lot of cyclists on that road.
8 ave, Vye Rd – follow to Yarrow Central Rd/ Vedder Mountain RdHard shoulder and good road. Moderate traffic.Wild camping anywhere along the river off Vedder Mountain Rd (before Chilliwack).--
Vedder Rd to Prarie Central Rd onto hwy 1 at Annis RdQuiet road with hard shoulder--Be-careful with your bikes in Chilliwack. High bike theft in the area.
Hwy 1 to HopeVery busy (esp. during holidays). Wide hard should and good road.--Save on Food supermarket in Hope has powerpoints, a picnic tables and free wifi outside. (We’ve discovered that a lot of the big supermarkets have free wifi and a picnic table)
Kettle Valley Rd/Trail (from Hope town to Othello Tunnels)Lot’s of people walking the trail. Gravel through the tunnels (sign telling you to walk the bikes through, but only at the entrance to the tunnels, on the ar park sign). Muddy if there’s been rain.--They filmed Rambo at the Othello Tunnels.
Tunnels Rd/ Othello RdQuiet road. Small hard shoulder. Good surface.----
Hwy 5 (Coquilhalla Summit 1225m)Busy road. Lot’s of trucks and RVs. Wide hard shoulder and good road. Steep 5km climb. Lot’s of chain up areas and a services area at the top of the summit.Lot’s of pull off points on the hwy with possible wildcampingCan cycle around the outside of the Great Bear Snow Shed, instead of through it.
Coldwater Rd to MerritQuiet road. Hard shoulder. Good road.--Free wifi at Walmart.
Hwy 5A to KamloopsModerate traffic. Hard shoulder. Good road.Good wildcamping spots around Stump Lake--
Hwy 5 to ClearwaterBusy. Good road. Hard shoulder.
From Clearwater it’s a very gradual incline to Jasper (we barely noticed it).
----
Hwy 5 to Blue River

(Messiter Summit approx. 850m – nothing to be worried about.)
Busy. Good road. Hard shoulder.Not too many wildcamping spots on the way to Blue River - due to the marshes. Also, lots of bears around Blue River and that general area. There is a campsite in Blue River (apparently overpriced). We were invited to camp in someone’s garden in the town.Not too many places to fill up water along this route. The guy at the garage in Avola is a grumpy man and he won’t let you fill up your water bottles, even if you buy something. Apparently the people at the burger place (Log Inn & Pub) in Avola, just around the corner from the gas station (down the hill) are super friendly, and will probably help you out.
Hwy 5 to Tete Jaune CacheBusy. Good road. Hard shoulder.Not much between Blue River and Valemount.Valemount is a cool town with lots of services (including a brewery & Swiss bakery).

Free wifi at the A&W/ gas station in Valemount.
Hwy 16 to Alberta (and Jasper National Park)As you would expect – super busy! Hard shoulder, though it’s very narrow at times (usually during the uphill sections where there are steep drop-offs).
There are a few steep inclines on the way to Jasper – the first starts just passed Mt Robson visitor centre.
We stayed at the official campsite in Mt Robson ($28 per night), but I think you could get away with wild camping in the BC park (not once you enter Jasper, though).Free wifi at the visitor centre in Mt Robson Provincial Park. Staff were really helpful.
Alberta
Canada cycle route
Hwy 16 to JasperSuper busy. Hard shoulder – bit narrow at times. Good road.We stayed in official campsites only – don’t think you could get away with wildcamping in the park.

Whistlers Campsite ($28 per night) – there are walk-in sites available. It’s about 3km outside Jasper.
We paid for the park pass. We were asked for it 3 times (we were in the park for 7 days). We showed it at Whistlers campsite – though they didn’t actually ask it. No other campsite we stayed at asked for the pass. We probably could have gotten away with just 2-3 day passes – that’s if you’re on a budget and don’t want to pay for the year pass. Also, if there are 2+ people in your group, get the family pass, it’s good for up to 6 people.

Free wifi at the park’s visitor centre in Jasper (we discovered that most national park visitor centres had free wifi).
Jasper to Lake Louise (Icefields Parkway hwy 93 & 93A)

2 main passes:
Sunwapta summit & Bow Summit
(You’ll get given a really helpful gradient chart of the entire icefields parkway, when you enter the national park – we found it really good).
93A was really quiet, 93 was really busy. There is a section of the 93 which is in pretty bad condition (coming down Sunwapta pass in the rain was not fun).

From Bow Summit the road is amazing – my favourite day cycling! They are due to repave the whole road but I’m not sure when this will be completed.
Jonas campsite ($15.70 per night) primitive site, but has water. Walk in sites available.

Rampart Creek campsite ($17.60 per night) primitive site, but has water. Walk in sites available – I think Waterfowl Lake would be nicer to camp at (the lake was beautiful). It was fully booked when we cycled pass and I’m not sure if they have walk-in sites.

Lake Louise campsite ($28 per night + booking fee). We booked this in advance as they don’t have walk in sites, and they were fully booked when we turned up. The next closest campsite is over 20km from Lake Louise.

Lake Louise is approx. 4km (up a steep hill) from the campsite and Lake Louise Village.

There are other official campsites along the parkway – not just those mentioned above. They are all included in the map provided when entering the park.
Skip the Icefields Center – tourist trap!

Make sure you check out the waterfalls along the way. Also the hike to the toe of the glacier was worth doing.

Free wifi at the visitor centre in Lake Louise. Also, free (unlocked) wifi near the bakery/ grocery store area in Lake Louise.

The bakery (Laggan's Mountain Bakery & Delicatessen) in Lake Louise Village is highly recommended.
Bow Valley Parkway to BanffBusy road. Good condition. Hard shoulder. We loved this cycle day.There are some official campsites along the parkway if you want to spend the night somewhere. There is also a campsite in Banff.Lot’s of pull outs on the route.

Free wifi at Banff visitor centre.
Banff to Canmore on the Legacy TrailCycle Path along the highway.--There are lot’s of cool ‘bike stations’ with pump, bike stand and tools, dotted around Banff & Canmore.
Hwy 1A to Seebe then Hwy 1 to Calgary

Scott’s Hill (1414m) Summit – a piece of cake after the icefields.
1A quieter road, but narrow hard shoulder. Hwy 1, very busy, but wide hard shoulder, good road. I recommend getting off hwy 1 when you get into Calgary – we didn’t and there were loads of road works, narrow hard shoulder and it was super busy. Try and get onto a road in Calgary with one of the many cycle paths.--Chiniki gas station is one of the only stops along the way – super friendly staff (they let us fill up our thermos). There are a couple of pull outs along the way as well.

MEC in Calgary has an awesome bike section (and free wifi).
Bow River Pathway/ Nose Creek Pathway to Harvest Hills Blvd (heading north out of the Calgary)Cycle path----
Centre St NNarrow hard shoulder (if any). Moderate to busy road.----
567Quiet to moderate traffic. Hard shoulder. Good road.----
Hwy 9 to DrumhellerQuiet to moderate traffic. Good road. Hard shoulder. Not much shade along the way.Camped at the Horseshoe canyon (no official campsite – but there wasn’t any “no camping” signs either).Beiseker was a cute town with a free museum and services (nothing from here to Drumheller).
Hwy 10 (the HooDoo trail), which turns into the 570 at Dorothy.Hard shoulder. Busy road until the Hoodoos, then it becomes very quiet. Road is pretty good condition. Hilly after Coulee community centre.

The cycle to Dorothy is beautiful – then it’s Prairie land the rest of the way.
There is a steep hill just after Dorothy - it felt like it went on and on.
There is a rest stop at Dorothy, which you could easily wild camp at – we didn’t find any water here, but I think you could ask someone in the town (there aren’t any shops/ services in Dorothy). There is a café at the museum in East Coulee (before Dorothy).

We wild camped at the Community Hall in Coulee – homestead Coulee (not much else there except the hall). We asked the workers camping at the site opposite to fill up our water bottles.

Detour at Big Rock (8km return) to visit the trading post. They have free wifi, coffee, free water, food, and are super friendly. There is also a campsite at the lake there (not sure how much they charge).

We also camped in an abandoned building – it looked like cyclists had probably camped there before. It was about 15km before the 886 intersection.
There is not much between Dorothy, AB and Eatonia, SK – so take enough food, and take sufficient water for at least a day or 2 depending on how many km you’re covering a day (there are a few places to fill up along the way, but not really anywhere to buy food).
** Another option is to take hwy 9 from Drumheller into Saskatchewan, but the hard shoulder is apparently quite narrow and the road is really busy. The upside is that there are a lot more towns along the way and the road surface is good. Once in SK head south on hwy 44 and continue on to Eatonia.------
Saskatchewan

canada cycle route
Hwy 44Lots of pot-holes, but the road is super quiet – no trucks allowed. We rode side by side for most of the time we were on hwy 44. There is also a narrow (if any) hard shoulder.Eatonia campsite ($25 per night)

Eston campsite ($10 for the overflow site)
There was no, “Welcome to Saskatchewan” sign on this road, which I was a bit disappointed about.
342Really quiet road and no trucks allowed. We rode side by side, and seen a car once ever 15-30 minutes. There are lots of potholes and no hard shoulder.

There’s a bit of a steep hill just before White Bear.
Hotel in White Bear. Other than that you’ll be camping in farmer’s land if you choose to wild camp in this section.Not much from Eston to Kyle, the White Bear Hotel has good food, free (unlocked) wifi and rents out rooms (it’s closed on Mondays). It’s in White Bear – super friendly community.
** Another option is to continue on hwy 44 all the way to hwy 4 then head south from there to Swift Current. The road is busier and it's a longer route, but there are more services along the way.------
Hwy 4 to Swift CurrentBusy (esp after being on the quiet roads). Lot’s of trucks. Hard shoulder – narrow at some points. Lot’s of potholes and broken bits at the side of the road (the road seemed better around Kyle and the Landing and got worse towards Swift Current).
A bit of a steep incline coming out of the Landing.
Campsite at the landing provincial park (not sure of the fee).

There’s also a hotel in Kyle (has wifi and cheap breakfast).
The library in Kyle has wifi (when it’s opened).
Hwy 1 to Regina.
I really enjoyed this section of the trans-canadian hwy 1.
Wide hard shoulder. Good road surface. Moderate to busy (lot’s of trucks).Visitor centre/ museum in Herbert offers camping for donation. They have wifi and good priced snacks and coffee, and really friendly staff.

$10 camping in Chaplin.
Towns/ services approx. every 20km from Swift Current to Moose Jaw, then only at Belle Plains from Moose Jaw to Regina.

Best bike store in Regina is Dutch Cycling.
Hwy 33 from Regina to StoughtonBusy near Regina, but the road becomes quieter the further you get from the city. Quite a few trucks on the road. Road is very patchy – good in sections, bad in others. Good to narrow hard shoulder. Fillmore (first night free camping – primitive site).

Creelman campsite $15 – washrooms and showers available.

Stoughton also had hotels, motels and a campsite.
This is where we discovered most town halls have a public library that offers free wifi (as well as toilets and water).

Registration for most town (municipal) campsites is at the town hall.
Hwy 13 to the Manitoba borderWide hard shoulder. Moderate traffic.
The road is in good condition until Redvers then the road quality changes to pretty bad (lots of potholes and a narrow hard shoulder), but we hardly seen any traffic on this section of road.
Redvers campsite $10 – register at visitor centre. Visitor Centre has free wifi and a cyclist logbook.

Arcola also had a campsite (not sure of the price).
--
Manitoba

Flag of Manitoba
Hwy 2 to DeleauHard shoulder is gravel (this is normal for Manitoba). Quiet road. Free wild camping in Deleau (toilets, picnic tables and water available).Don’t expect a hard shoulder on a road in Manitoba unless it’s highway 1 – it’s a “Manitoba thing” I’ve been told.

There is a small “Welcome to Manitoba” sign on this road.
Hwy 21 to HartneyNo hard shoulder. Good to average road. Quiet road – even in the town.Campsite in Hartney $10 (avoid if it’s the town’s annual festival – the campsite will turn into a nightclub until 4am and you won’t get any sleep).Wifi at the library in Hartney.
** Alternative Route: If you want to go to Winnipeg then you can stay on hwy 2 all the way to Winnipeg. Hwy 2 will be busier and still have no hard shoulder.------
Hwy 23 which you can take all the way to Dufrost (via Morris).

After Dufrost you can take highway 59 south to the 201 East.
No hard shoulder.
Road quality is patchy and changes constantly.
Bad road around Ninette (hilly).
Good road from Swan Lake to Altamont (there is even a hard shoulder for part of it) – also hilly. Flat from Miami. Quiet road.

Can't comment on the road condition after Morris – see note below.
Campsite just east of Elgin looked like a nice spot (not sure of the price).

You could probably wild camp at the rest/ picnic stop near Dunrea and also just before Miami. There are toilets and picnic tables there.

Campsite at Ninette lake ($22) – popular

Campsite at Belmont ($15)

Campsites at Baldur, Swan Lake and Somerset (not sure of price).

Campsite at Miami ($10)
There seems to be a campsite at every other town.

Roland’s Roadhouse in Roland – owner is super friendly and helpful. Good pizza and wifi.
** We took a slightly different route on hwy 23 to visit a friend at his farm, but our route involves 20km on a gravel road, so I don’t recommend it. In case you’re interested, on hwy 23 we turned south near Kane/ Morris onto a gravel road to our friend’s farm. After visiting our friend we continued south until we reached 14, then we headed East to Rosenfeld. At Rosenfeld we headed south on 30 until we reached 201 East.The 14 was busy. No hard shoulder. Ok road.

The 30 was moderate to quiet. No hard shoulder
----
201 Moderate to quiet traffic to Vita.

After Vita the road is really quiet.

No hard shoulder the whole way. Road quality is ok – patchy in sections.
In Vita you can wild camp at the school (free). There are toilets, but no running water.The owners of Eva’s café in Vita are amazing! Free (unlocked) wifi, free filtered water and cheap food. Highly recommend!

At the intersection with hwy 12, towards Piney, there is a community building on the west side of the road. There is a picnic table and well with running spring water. Ignore the sign – the water is drinkable.
Hwy 12 (This is apart of “Mom’s Way” – an alternative route to the Trans-Canada from Winnipeg to Thunder Bay).Moderate to quiet road. Good surface for most of it. No hard shoulder.We wild camped in the public park at Middlebro (about 6km from the USA border) – picnic tables and a gross public toilet.South Junction gas station has free wifi and picnic tables.
USA: Minnesota
Hwy 11 (Mom’s Way)

Warroad to Baudette (USA stretch – approx. 60km)
There is a small hard shoulder with a rumble strip (you’re forced to cycle on the white line for most of it). The road is moderate to busy. We did not enjoy this section at all!--Williams has a fresh spring well and picnic tables. There is also unlocked wifi at the diner opposite the park (if you eat at the diner - avoid the chips and cheese dip, complete ripoff).
Canada

Ontario


Flag_of_Ontario.svg-2
Hwy 11 (Mom’s Way) Rainy River to Fort FrancesRainy River to Fort Frances there is a small hard shoulder. The road is good quality - for the most part. Quiet to moderate traffic.Wild camped at the rest stop at Sleeman (drop toilets, bins and picnic tables).

Fort Frances campground (pretty gross washrooms and shower block) $17 per night.
Free wifi at Walmart and the visitor center in Fort Frances.
Hwy 11 (Mom’s Way) Fort Frances to Shabaqua JunctionFor most of the road there is a hard shoulder (small to medium). Road quality is generally good – a few potholes/ road works in parts. Traffic is quiet to moderate. Hilly. Overall we enjoyed this section.Wild camped at the Seine River First Nations community (next to the Pow Wow grounds and sports hall). Free wifi at the sports hall – just ask one of the local kids for the password.

Wild camped at the rest stop near Suwapta, about 3km before a diner and the small village. Drop toilets and picnic tables, and easy access to the lake for a swim.

Wild camped at Sabaqua Junction – ask the ice cream van owners where to camp.
There is a long stretch of nothing between the Red Gut gas station and Suwapta diner (approx. 100km).

Red Gut gas station has wifi and picnic tables. The staff were more than happy to fill our water bottles (with ice) for us.

Shabaqua Junction is not a town, but there is a ice cream/ food van there with super friendly owners that love cyclists. They have a great ice cream selection and chill out area. They can also point you in the direction for somewhere to sleep and fill up your water bottles. Great little spot!

Avoid the motel/ gas station about 200m on from the ice cream van - they are not cyclist friendly and won't let you use the wifi (even if you buy something).
Hwy 11/ 17 Shabaqua Junction to Thunder Bay (via Kakabeka Falls)Busy! Road quality is good and has a wide hard shoulder. --Kakabeka Falls is free for cyclists and worth the stop.
103/ Arthur St into Thunder Bay (south)Busy! No hard shoulder for most of the road. Pot holes!

Generally, I didn't find Thunder Bay very cycle friendly.
--Cyclists are prohibited on Hwy 11/ 17 from the 103 intersection (including the section where the Terry Fox memorial is).

We were really impressed with Fresh Air bike store in Thunder Bay.

Tokyo House all you can eat buffet in Thunder Bay is awesome (it's on the south side of the city). Lunch buffet is only about $15.
Take Lake Shore Drive when leaving Thunder Bay (Hwy 11/17 prohibits bicycles until the Lake Shore/ Hwy intersection) Bicycle friendly – medium hard shoulder, moderate to quiet road.Rest stop at Wild Goose Park – potential wild camping spot with beach access!--
Hwy 11/17 to NipigonLot’s of construction work going on (sign states work not to be completed until 2021).

Busy! Lot’s of trucks. Small hard shoulder (bad quality in sections). We did not enjoy this section of the road at all – it didn’t feel particularly safe (we did have constant rain though).
Rest stop approx. 60km north of Thunder Bay – potential wild camping spot (shelter, toilets, picnic tables)!--
Hwy 11

Nipigon to Marathon – stunning!

Superior Lake Provincial Park – even more stunning (cycling through this park was one of our favourite cycle days)!
There were lot’s of road works going on when we cycled. Various different completion dates.

Small to medium hard shoulder (sometimes even a wide hard shoulder, sometimes nothing). Quality varies.

Busy! Lot’s of trucks. More traffic seems to travel West, than East.

Nipigon to Marathon and Wawa to Sault St Marie have quite challenging climbs. Some particularly steep climbs between Nipigon and Rossport (at least 3 climbs). There is also a steep climb coming into Sault.

The hard shoulder from White River to Sault St Marie on the east side (the west side didn't look as bad) was terrible! Lot’s of potholes and cracks. At points we had to cycle on the road, and the road is super busy along this stretch.
Wild camped at the rest stop just outside Rossport on the lakeshore (with beach). Great spot!

Potential wild camping at Aguasabon Fall (2km west of Terrace Bay).

We did see someone pitch his or her tent at the visitor centre in Terrace Bay.

Wild camping at Marathon information centre (on hwy 11). Marathon centre is about 4km off the highway.

Manitouwadge turnoff (intersection 614) has a rest stop with toilet.

White Lake Provincial Park has campsites (not sure of the cost).

White River – you can camp at the picnic area next to the tourist information (watch out for bears in this area). Tourist information has free (unlocked) wifi and toilets.

There is a rest stop about 10km east of White River, which is a potential wild camping spot (toilets and picnic tables – no, ‘no camping’ sign).

In Wawa you could try wild camping at the lakeshore – there are no ‘no camping’ signs, and RVs stop there for the night, however the visitor center did advise us that occasionally tenters get moved on (it depends who is patrolling that night). Otherwise, there are wild camping spots by the river (Michipicten River) about 6km south of Wawa.

Lake Superior Provincial Park is stunning! Don't skip Old Woman Bay (potential wild campsite) and Katherine's Cove (potential wild camping spot). It is a provincial park and these aren't official campsites so there is a chance you might get moved on, but I think generally it's pretty relaxed. We camped at Sinclair Cove, which was beautiful, but it's a 1.5km detour down a steep road. There is also an official campsite in the park at Agawa Bay, and backcountry campsite available. The closest backcountry campsite we could find to the highway was only 200m, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you have a mountain bike or don't have much gear. The site is at Barrett River (the ranger recommended it to us, but it was too much hassle with the bikes/ bags).

Wild Rose RV park in Batchawana offers free camping for cyclists. The Voyagers nextdoor, apparently has the best apple fritters in Ontario.

Velorution Bike Store in Sault St Marie has a free cyclist campsite (closed on Sundays, but the campsite is out the back. You can text the owner for the washroom code).
Hungry Moose just west of Schreiber is cyclist friendly. Reasonably priced, big portions, good food, free wifi.

Esso garage at Terrace Bay has free (unlocked) wifi.

We discovered that the Husky gas station has a loyalty program, which is free to join up and gives you 500 free points (50 points gives you a free shower, 130 points gives you a free coffee). Husky in White River is right next to the tourist information – perfect place for a shower before pitching your tent. They also have free wifi – when it works!

Wawa visitor center has very good wifi. No camping allowed at the visitor centre. There are no services/ shops for at least 160km south of Wawa.

Canadian Carver - huge tourist trap! Crap wifi! The Voyagers also has crap wifi!
John Rowswell Hub Trail: bike trail around Sault St MariePay attention to the markers and pick up a map - it's easy to lose the trail.

Pretty neat idea, and really well developed around the waterfront.
--Starts next to Velorution bike store (free campsite).
Leaving Sault St Marie on Hwy 17No hard shoulder. Super busy road with lots of trucks.----
Hwy 17BQuiet to moderate traffic. Small hard shoulder.--The world’s largest loonie is on this road, next to a nice picnic spot.
Hwy 17 to just before Sudbury (Whitefish turn off).Super busy, truck road. Small hard shoulder.

The highway between Espanola and Sudbury is particularly bad. There is no hard shoulder at times. We ended up cycling on the gravel shoulder, which isn’t particularly safe as it’s really soft, but the road was too busy to cycle on. This was probably the un-safest section of road we’ve cycled on so far in Canada. There are also a lot of cracks and potholes along this section of road.
Iron Bridge visitor centre/ museum/ picnic area allows camping. We left a donation for letting us camp there.

It’s possible to camp at Spanish near the Marina. There is also free wifi at the marina building, and washroom, shower and laundry facilities.

Potential wild camping at the picnic site approx. 20km east of Espanola.

There are quite a few official campsites along the highway, all seem to charge about $34+ a night for an unpowered, tent site.
This is Amish country, and there are quite a few farmers markets, and fruit and veg stalls along the highway. Most of them seemed to be Amish owned. We also saw some horse and carriages on the road (Thessalon and Iron Bridge seemed to be the most noticeable Amish area).
Road 55

(You can follow this road all the way into Sudbury if you are planning on heading into the city, otherwise you can get back on hwy 17 to go around the city).
No hard shoulder. Quiet road. Potholes (road 55 felt safer than the section of hwy 17 we were on just prior).----
Leaving Sudbury: Bancroft Drive to ConistonCycle path for part of the way. No hard shoulder for the other part. The road is generally really quiet (less stressful than the highway). Some potholes.----
Hwy17 After Sudbury the road quality improves. The road is still really busy, but less cracks/ potholes and a more constant (small) hard shoulder.

Rumble strip on the hard shoulder about 20km east of Mattawa, until just before Deep River (apparently, this is something that’s going to become more common in the area).
Potential wild camping at the picnic spot approx. 30km east of Sudbury.

Wild camping at the picnic/ scenic lookout 20km west of North Bay (we camped behind the toilet block).

Potential wild camping spot at the picnic spot 15km east of Mattawa.

Wild camping at the picnic spot (next to the lake) 45km east of Mattawa.
The New Ontario Brewing Company in North Bay has good beer!
** Coming into Ottawa we took a lot of country roads to avoid the traffic. It was nice and easy (much better than the highway). I’ve included the route below, however it might sound a bit complicated. I’m lead to believe that whatever country road you take into Ottawa will be much nicer than the highway.------
Turned onto Murphy Road towards Petawawa at the Petawawa intersection.Moderate to busy. No hard shoulder. Paved.----
Petawawa Blvd to Pembroke (road changes to Pembroke Street in Pembroke).Bicycle lane on the road! Busy to moderate. Paved.--Loads of Tim Hortons and other fast food places along this stretch. Very built up.
Beachburg Road to Foresters Fall RoadModerate to quiet country road. No hard shoulder. Paved.If you want to detour to the White Water Brewing Company (only 6km off Beachburg Rd), they offer camping for $10 per person.Beachburg is a super cute town. Great community vibe.
Queens Line (changes to Storyland Road)Quiet country road. No hard shoulder. Paved.----
River Road to ArnpriorQuiet country road. No hard shoulder. Paved.----
Old Highway 17Busy coming out of Arnprior, then the road goes quiet. Paved.----
Kinburn Side Road to Kinburn. Turn onto Loggers Way, which changes to Donald B Munro Drive. Follow this road to the town, Carp.Quiet road. No hard shoulder. Paved.--Carp has a picnic area and also a really nice café.
March Road Moderate to busy, with a small hard shoulder. Paved.----
Turn left onto Dunrobin Road (sign posted to Quebec), then turn right onto Riddell Drive, then turn right onto March Valley Road. Quiet roads. Small or no hard shoulder. Paved.

March Valley Road was a nice cycle.
----
Terry Fox Drive (turns into Herzberg Road) to Carling Avenue.Busy. Good road. ----
On Carling Ave you can access the cycle path, which will lead you to Parliament Hill in central Ottawa.Cycle Path (approx. 20km to Parliament Hill). Nice cycle.--This route will avoid all the crazy traffic going into Ottawa. It’s the easiest capital city I’ve ever cycled into.
There are two popular routes from Ottawa to Montreal; 1) the Quebec route along the Ottawa River, 2) the Ontario route. We took the Ontario route because it was slightly shorter. ----We recommend The Cyclery bike store in Ottawa, though there are a lot of other good bikes stores in the city if they don't have what you're looking for.
Ottawa cycle paths to the Prescott-Russell Recreational Trail (ends just after St Eugene at St Eugene Road).72km cycle path. Compacted gravel. Good to cycle on for 95% of the time. Because it is gravel inspect to go a bit slower then on paved road.

We really enjoyed this cycle path.
I think it would be possible to wild camp at the picnic sites along the route. The picnic site at St-Eugene looked like a good option.Picnic tables and toilets along the way.

We didn’t see any water available along the route. There are also no shops, but it’s easy to detour to one of the towns along the route.
St Eugene Road to #10 road (Chemin Comte 10) to Quebec borderSmall hard shoulder. Moderate to quiet traffic.----
Quebec

Flag of Quebec
Chemin du Haut-de-la-Chute road to RigaudModerate traffic. No hard shoulder. Lot’s of cracks and pot holes in the road. Really pretty road next to the river.--Riguad has a good Metro superstore with free wifi.
342Small hard shoulder. Moderate to busy road. Paved.----
Chemin de l’Anse (changes to Rue Main, then to Avenue Saint-Charles) follow this to the bridge at Vaudreuil-Dorion.Shared bicycle/ car road (no separate bicycle lane and no hard shoulder for most of this road). There are some pot holes on the road. When cycling through the towns the cycle path improves. --Really good bakery in Vaudreuil-Dorion (just before the bridge) called “Premiere Moisson.” They also have wifi and really good coffee.
La Route Verte 5 to the locks at Montreal (if you want to get to downtown Montreal)Cycle path on the road. Shared bicycle/ car road at points. Paved. Quiet to Moderate traffic. Quality of the road changes a lot. --The route follows the river. There are lots of picnic spots along the way. There are also lots of services (shops, cafes etc.)
Cycle route along the canal (Du Canal de Lachine) to the old port and downtown Montreal.Cycle path. Paved. Quiet. Nice cycle.--Best poutine in Montreal at La Banquise restaurant (opened 24/7). They also have vegan options.
La Route Verte #5 out of Montreal and over the Norte-Dame Bridge.Mixture of cycle paths and cycle lanes on roads.--Metro supermarket along this route.
138 (which overlaps with Chemin du Roy cycle route and La Route Verte #5 cycle route) to Saint-Augustin-De-Desmaures (just outside Quebec City), once you reach this place make sure you get off the 138 and follow either the Chemin du Roy or La verte route into Quebec City.We ended up just following the 138, as the signage for both the Chemin du Roy and La Route Verte was inconsistent and a bit confusing.

Good hard shoulder for most of the route. Moderate to quiet road.
Not many wild camping spot along this route. The route is pretty “built up.”

There are a few paid campsites available and plenty of motels and B&Bs.

Gîte et Café de la Tour Bed & Breakfast in Sainte-Ann-de-la-Perade, offers free overnight camping in their garden, and optional $10 per person breakfast (incl. coffee) and $10 per person for shower/ washroom facilities.
Plenty of services along the route (picnic spots, supermarkets, shops, cafes, restaurants, motels, water, public toilets, wifi). A lot of the town’s had free municipal wifi.

The Old Port Markets in Quebec City are worth checking out. The wine and cider samples are quite good and very unique (think tomato wine, ice cider and maple rum).
Leaving Quebec City we had 2 options:
- Ferry – easy, cheap ($3.55 per person), quick, nice view of the city
- Bridge – 20km longer, busy, hectic
We took the ferry. It was great – we definitely recommend this over the bridge.--Buy your ferry ticket before boarding the ferry. When we were there the ferry ran every 10-20 minutes and takes about 10 minutes to cross.
Bike path (La Route Verte #1) to the 132Cycle path. Flat and quiet. Nice view of the river.--Picnic spots along the way.
132/ La Route Verte #1 (where we couldn’t cycle on the 132 we followed the Route Verte signs) to Riviere du LoupWide hard shoulder. Quiet road. Well paved - good road condition.

Occasionally the Route Verte was a compacted gravel cycle path, other times it was on the hard shoulder of the 132 or on a quiet road.

We loved this cycle along the Saint Lawrence River. Very beautiful, and relatively flat.
Wild camped at the viewpoint just east of Saint-Roch-des-Auinaies. A stunning spot – right on the river.Picnic spot at the tourist information in Montmagny is a nice spot. The tourist centre has wifi, toilets and drinking water.

The tourist information near La Pocatiere has wifi, drinking water, toilets and good cycle maps, including of La Route Verte #5.
La Route Verte #5 cycle route (135km to Edmunston, NB)Compacted gravel cycle path. Quiet. No cars or motorbikes allowed.Plenty of camping opportunities (approx. every 10km). There are also primitive campsites along the route for $10 per person (self registration).Lots of picnic sites located along the route. Some with drinking water, toilets and shelters.
New Brunswick

flag_of_new_brunswick
Route 144 form Edmunston to Grand Falls (the 144 changes to 108 just before Grad Falls).Small to large hard shoulder. Good paved road. Moderate traffic – busier around Grand Falls.--Nice look out point with picnic tables at Grand Falls.
Route 130 to Perth – Andover

** We did attempt to get on the NB cycle trail (Trans Canadian Trail), but it was soft, rocky gravel. After about 15km the route was closed and we had to detour up a big hill to get back on 130.
Small hard shoulder. The road was patchy in section but generally good. Quite hilly. Moderate traffic.----
Crossed the bridge at Perth- Andover and got on the 105 to Woodstock.

The NB trail does run besides 105. We got on the trail a couple of times, but the gravel was rocky and soft in sections, so we didn’t stay on for more than 15km at a time. It is definitely flatter on the NB trail.
Quiet traffic. Busier around the settlements (particularly near Bristol). Small hard shoulder – sometimes no hard shoulder. Very hilly – if you struggle with constant ups and downs then take the NB trail.--Hartland has a nice picnic spot near the world’s longest covered bridge.

Woodstock seemed a bit sketchy, especially around the Tim Hortons.
Crossed over the bridge at Woodstock and got on the 103 to just before highway 2Moderate traffic. Small to wide hard shoulder. Road quality changes, but generally good.----
NB trail (Ritchie Road to Pokiok Road) - to avoid getting on the highwayQuiet road. Lots of potholes and cracks in sections. Road leads to a suspension bridge. Nice cycle.Wild camped at the picnic spot next to the suspension bridge. No toilets, but there is a picnic table and water from the river.--
Crossed Hawskskaw Bridge and onto Otis Drive through NackawicQuite road. Small hard shoulder. Good paving.--World’s largest axe is in town.
105Quiet road (after the 605 turn off). No hard shoulder. Patchy paving – ok in sections, bumping in other sections. Hilly!--No rest area until York Centennial Park (really nice toilets, picnic tables, water).
Mactaquac Road (across the bridge)Moderate to heavy traffic. Good paved road.--Cool view of the dam on the other side of the bridge.
102Moderate traffic. Good paved road. Wide hard shoulder.----
Just after the “welcome to Fredericton sign” the trans Canada bike trail starts (look out for the sign).Bike path. Compacted gravel/ paved closer to the city. Quiet. Nice cycle.--We followed the bicycle path to the superstore in Fredericton, then out of the city to Oromocto.
102 to Burton BridgeBusy road. Small to no hard shoulder. Ok paving – a bit bumping in patches.----
105 to just before Jemseg (before the bridge).Busy near the bridge and for about 5km after the bridge, then the road quietens downs. The road has hardly any hard shoulder at first and is a bit bumping, but that also improves after 5-10km. Flat, nice cycle along the river.----
Highway 2

** We were going to get on highway 2 at Jemseg, but 105 was closed before the bridge (the bridge itself was not finished), which meant we had to get on highway 2 before the bridge. Once we were on the highway, and at the bridge, there was a “no bicycle sign.” Bicycles are allowed on the highway, but not the bridge. Not wanting to cycle the wrong way down the highway (plus we had no alternative way to get over the Jemseg) we still cycled the bridge – it seemed find, there is still a decent hard shoulder, and it’s two lane traffic, but the bridge is very long.
Moderate traffic. Busy around the bridges. Nice smooth, paved road, with a really wide hard shoulder.--Nice bakery/ grocery store (attached to the gas station) in Jemseg.
Road 10Quiet road (when we were there, but I image in the high season this road is quite busy with tourist traffic). Patchy road, with a few bumps and cracks. Hilly!A couple of seasonal campsites along the route (lot's of places start to close after Sept).Visitor Centre at the junction (it’s seasonal, so was closed when we were there). There is also a gas station on the other-side of the junction turn off.
Sussex

Took McGregor Brook Road, the 121 (Main Street) through Sussex.
Busy! Lot’s of local traffic and tourist traffic. No inner city bike paths. No hard shoulder. There is a campsite in town, but it is seasonal, as are the campsites just out of town.

Timberland Motel (about 7km outside Sussex on the way to Fundy NP) is cyclist friendly,
Famous for it’s murals!

Outdoor Elements is a really good bicycle store – the guys there are awesome!

Lot’s of supermarkets and other stores just as you enter town.
Post Road (Road 111)No hard shoulder. Moderate traffic. Bumpy, but paved.----
114 to Fundy National Park

(make sure you follow 114 at the turn off for Fundy – it’s hard to miss).
Very hilly! A few 10% gradients. Quite when we were there (the beginning of October), but I image there would be a lot of tourist traffic in summer. No hard shoulder for most of the cycle. Road is patchy and bumping in sections, but as soon as you enter the park the road is smooth, small hard shoulder.There are a few park campsite options.

We stayed at Headquarters, because it’s walking distance to Alma town. The campsite is pretty cool, has coin laundry and even wifi ($20.40 per night in the shoulder season). Register at the kiosk or visitor centre.

There is also a primitive campsite at Wolfe Lake (there is a nice picnic site there as well, with toilets).
Park entrance is $8 a day (or free if you have the discovery pass from the Rockies).

Kelly’s bake store is good. We picked up some great “day old” deals. Also, home to the "sticky bun" - try and get one freshy baked.
915 (the scenic route)

* You can stay on 114 instead, which is flatter. To be honest, I don’t think the views on 914 were worth the detour and hills, but I guess that’s personal opinion.
It’s very hilly! Quiet, but I image this would be busy in the peak season. No hard shoulder. Bumpy road.There is a free campground not far after the turn off to the viewpoint.

There are also a few official campsites and guesthouses along this road.
The scenic viewpoints (including the one with the lighthouse) are about 12km detour off the road.
114Moderate to busy road (I image in peak season this road would be constantly busy). There is no hard shoulder (occasionally passing through towns a hard shoulder or bike lane might briefly appear). Paved road, mostly ok.There are a few campsites around Hopewell Rocks, and plenty of motels and guesthouses.

We stayed at the Hopewell Rocks Motel as it was the closest place to the Hopewell park, which meant we could easily walk down and not have to worry about the bikes. They also have somewhere you can store and lock the bikes.
Hopewell Rocks are worth seeing. We spent the night near the rocks, and then walked down after the park closed to see the rocks at low tide (you can enter the park after it’s closed, it’s just you do so at your own risk – and obviously, you don’t have to pay). It was great; hardly any other people there and the rocks were really beautiful around sunset. Definitely recommend!
Moncton

Bike path just before the bridge at Riverview across to Moncton.
Cycle paths around town (gravel or paved).Hostel and guesthouses in downtown. We stayed at the C'mon Inn Hostel, which was in a good location downtown and they have secure bicycle storage.

Campsites are towards Magnetic Hill (about 8km from downtown)
Pump House Brewery does some good beers.

Mike’s bike store is the cheaper bike store in town.
134Moderate traffic. Road is paved with a hard shoulder near the towns, but otherwise there is no shoulder and the road is bumpy with lots of pot holes.----
133Moderate traffic. Paved road, patchy with cracks and potholes in sections. Not much of a hard shoulder. Occasional cycle lane though towns.--Shediac has a nice picnic area at the visitor centre. Free wifi, toilets, a good view of the lake and the world’s largest plastic lobster.
Highway 15Wide shoulder, smooth paved road, moderate traffic.----
955Quiet road along the coast. No hard shoulder. Paved, good to begin with, gets bumpy with potholes as approaching the highway junction.--Only a gas station/ general store along this route.
Highway 16 to the Jourimain Island visitor centre (before the bridge).Wide hard shoulder, smooth paved road, moderate traffic.--Bicycles are prohibited on the Confederation Bridge. There is a shuttle across the bridge, which you catch from the visitor centre ($8.50 per cyclist – but, you only pay if you’re leaving the island). Call the shuttle from a black phone in the visitor centre – then wait until it turns up. We waited 45mins before the shuttled turned up. Shuttle is 24/7, but runs on demand.

Visitor centre has wifi, toilets, picnic tables and a lookout.
Prince Edwards Island (P.E.I)

flag_of_prince_edward_island
Confederation Bike trail to Emerald Junction (road 232)Bike path. Compacted gravel. Nice cycle. Flat.--Lots of picnic tables along the way. A few shelters.
Road 232Paved, quiet, no hard shoulder.----
Mill Road to Highway 2Paved, until half way along the road then it changes to loose gravel for 1km, then changes back. Quiet road. Hilly.

Highway 2 is good, paved, busy, with hard shoulder.
----
Rattenbury Road (road 254)Hilly. Paved. Quiet. No/ small hard shoulder.----
Highway 6 to Cawnpore LaneSmall/ medium hard shoulder, moderate traffic, good paved road.There are a few campsites along this route, but they are seasonal. P.E.I National Park, Cavedish and Green Gables are along this route.

Seasonal route: If travelling this route after Sept, expect a lot of the cafes, shops, campsites, hotels and restaurants to be closed for the season.
Gulf Shore Parkway (this is in the P.E.I national park)Paved cycle path. Beautiful.There is a campsite in Rustico which is open later in the season than Cavendish campsite.

There are also a few wild campspots (if it's low season).
Lot's of view points.
Highway 6Paved. No/ small hard shoulder. Moderate traffic. ----
223Paved. Pretty good road, no pot holes or cracks. Quiet - only local traffic. Hilly.--Nice views of the valley.
Confederation bike trail into CharlottetownBike path. Compacted gravel. Flat. We found the bike trails in PEI really good and well maintained. --Lots of picnic spots along the route. The bike route takes you to downtown Charlottetown. You pass the superstore and a few other shops along the way.
Highway 1 to wood islands and the ferry terminalHard shoulder, rough road with lots of pot holes and cracks in spots, moderate traffic.--Ferry terminal at wood islands has free wifi, toilets and a café. Ferry is $20 per cyclist (you only pay when leaving the island).
Nova Scotia

flag_of_nova_scotia
106Hard shoulder, smooth road, quiet (but dependant on whether a ferry has just arrived).Wild camping spot near Pictou on the Jitney Trail near Brown Point (washrooms and bins).

The Auberge Walker Inn (now called The Scotsman Inn) is a cycle friendly hotel in downtown Pictou (secure bicycle storage and friendly staff).
--
376Decent hard shoulder near Pictou, and a good road (part of the blue cycle route). Quiet to moderate traffic, busier near Salt Springs.Campsite/ picnic site near Salt Springs.--
Highway 4 to TruroNo hard shoulder. Quiet road. Lots of potholes and cracks in the road.Campsite/ picnic site near Salt Springs.
Highway 2 (follow willow street out of Truro) to HalifaxNo hard shoulder or small hard shoulder (for most of the road). Quiet road - busy coming into Halifax, and busy near the major towns. Mostly good, paved road.There are a few picnic sites along the road.* Don't get onto highway 102 at any point - it's a very busy highway with a small hard shoulder.
  • Information on road conditions, prices, campsites, wifi accessibility etc. is valid as of our cycle across Canada trip in the summer of 2016.
  • This list is non-exhaustive (ie. doesn’t include all potential campsites, wifi spots etc.)

Cycling the Alberta Prairies

cycling the Prairies, Cycling the Alberta Prairies

Kelly’s write up about cycling the Alberta Prairies during our cycle trip across Canada in Summer 2016! Click here to read Michael’s write up of cycling across the Prairies.  

A couple of rest days in Calgary and then a couple more in Airdrie was exactly what we needed before Cycling the Alberta Prairies! We had the chance to rest, clean our gear, buy new gear, replace some broken and lost things, eat a whole lot of food and drink a whole lot of beer. So, as you can image we were feeling a bit more ‘normal’ and more enthusiastic about the cycle ahead!

Horseshoe Canyon and the Start of the Prairies

Once we left Airdrie the Prairies became quite apparent. Suddenly there were yellow canola fields, pastures, meadows and wheat farms everywhere. The land also flattened out – though there were still a lot of small hills along the way (which we weren’t expecting). The wind picked up and we spent the day battling a strong head wind. The first of the trip, but not the last.

We spent the night camping in Horseshoe canyon – a stunning canyon just outside Drumheller. It was at Horseshoe canyon where we started to see Prairie Dogs (this is actually where we spotted the most Prairie dogs of the whole trip). Prairie Dogs are totally adorable! They are Canada’s quokkas. A quokka is a marsupial found on an island just off the coast of Perth and they are the happiest, little fur ball in the world, and totally adorable!

quokka selfie
My cousin with a quokaa
prairie dog, Cycling the Alberta Prairies
Prairie dog at Horseshoe canyon, which we discovered while cycling the Alberta Prairies

[ctt template=”8″ link=”nD8hL” via=”yes” nofollow=”yes”]Prairie Dogs are totally adorable! They are Canada’s quokkas.[/ctt]

Drumheller: The Dinosaur Town

In the morning we cycled onto the tourist town, Drumheller. To get to Drumheller we had a steep descent into the Coulee. It was an awesome and very pretty cycle! It also meant we smashed out 20km in less than an hour.

Drumheller is famous for it’s dinosaurs. As soon as you enter the town you will start to see plastic dinosaurs everywhere. We headed straight to the visitor center to see the world’s largest plastic dinosaur. It was actually pretty awesome! You could even pay to climb up to the mouth of the dinosaur. I have to admit, I am a fan of the various, “world largest” items.

We spent a bit of time chatting to the lady in the visitor center and mapped out a plan. We decided to head down highway 10 to check out the Hoodoos (rock formations on a smaller scale to those in Cappadocia, Turkey) and then cycle the quiet 570. Before we head off down this route, we made a quick, but important stop at good ole’ Timmy’s for some sugary treats and a coffee.

The Hoodoos

Highway 10 was stunning, though quite touristy. We cycled through the coulee (like cycling in a gorge or narrow valley) for most of the day. The Hoodoos were quite cool – worth the stop! Not as impressive as the rock formations we seen in Turkey, but still completely different to anything we had seen in Canada so far.

After the Hoodoos the traffic disappeared. There were still a couple of small towns we cycled passed, but we knew we would get to a point that this would end. At the end of the Coulee, in the very small town of Dorothy, we stopped in the shade and had a long rest.

Chilling with the dinos at Drumheller
Chilling with the dinos at Drumheller

Road 570: Entering the Prairie Plains!

From Dorothy there was 300km until the next town, which was also in the next province, Saskatchewan. There were very limited services along the route, so we weren’t sure where we would be able to get water. We decided to take this route due to the lack of traffic. Cycling the Alberta Prairies was challenging!

The first night we camped at a community hall in Coulee. Coulee consisted of a farm, a community center/ school (which didn’t look like it was being used) and a camp of construction workers. Luckily this meant we could fill up out water at their camp.

The next day was shit! Strong headwinds, lots of mosquitos, little change in scenery and lots of bloody hills (I thought the Prairies were flat – what I friggin’ lie). To fill up our water bottles we had to detour off the road about 6km to the trading post at Big Rock (Big Rock consisted of a trading post, a house and a campsite). The trading post was like an oasis, with cold drinks, hot drinks, free wifi, free water and friendly staff. I didn’t want to leave. I would have happily lived there for the rest of my life instead of getting back on the 570, but unfortunately, that wasn’t an option.

Haunted Shacks and Ghost Towns

We headed back to the 570 and continued towards Saskatchewan. Finally, we got a nice long descent. When I reached the bottom, I turned around to see where Michael was and noticed a huge black storm cloud was making its way for us. Fortunately, there was an abandoned house in the field, so we decided to head over and check it out.

SASKATCHEWAN ON TWO WHEELS
Where we slept for the night

Now, anyone that knows me would also know I’m a big wimp. I hate anything that could potentially be haunted, I hate scary movies, I hate all that horror crap! I was not planning on sleeping in an abandoned house that looked like it hadn’t been lived in for 50 years. Michael must have been able to tell, just by looking at me that I wasn’t too impressed with the idea. Every horror movie I had ever watched that featured ghosts or haunted houses, started to go through my head. How the hell was I going to sleep in that shack?
Fortunately (or unfortunately), the storm hit! It was bad. Later we learnt just how bad it was – roads had washed out, farms flooded and some areas even got hail. We had no choice but to camp in the haunted shack (by this time I had already decided it was haunted). Surprisingly, I had a good sleep. The storm distracted me from the sounds from the ghosts, that along with being so exhausted from cycling in a headwind all day, meant I passed out pretty much as soon as my head hit the mat.

[ctt template=”8″ link=”mg5c8″ via=”yes” nofollow=”yes”]The storm distracted me from the sounds from the ghosts[/ctt]

Cycling the Alberta Prairies

In the morning we woke to clouds, but the storm has pass. We managed to get some pretty awesome photos in the shack. I was in shock that I actually managed to sleep in a haunted shack – something to tick off the bucket list!
We packed off and got back on the 570 to the Saskatchewan border. We may have finished cycling the Alberta Prairies, but really the Prairies had only just begun!

Are you planning your own cycle tour? If so, check out  this article about Accommodation Options for Cycle Tourists.

VANCOUVER TO THE ROCKIES; WET DAYS ON TWO WHEELS.

alberta vancovuer to the rockies

Michael’s write up of our the start of our cycle trip in Canada, cycling from Vancouver to the Rockies. Click here to read Kelly’s write up of cycling in British Columbia.

It’s here! Cycling Vancouver to The Rockies!

After 3 years of having very vague plans to ride across Canada the time had finally come! So here it is, my write up of the start of our world cycle trip, cycling Vancouver to the Rockies. You’d think after that long, it would all go pretty smoothly right? No, the start was a massive pain in the sensitive delicate rectum region.

We had subjected ourselves to that horrible thing known as “having a job” back home in Australia in order to save some extra cash for the trip seeing as we couldn’t save at all living in Vancouver. After 7 months we had finally saved up enough pennies to get back to Canada and begin our next adventure! We arrived in Vancouver after some major flight delays (8 or so hours) plus missed connecting flights, lost baggage and dramas getting our camping stove, ‘Colin on the plane (when the stove did eventually make it to Vancouver it had been damaged on the flight…fuck you WestJet!).

We were ready to rock from Vancouver to the Rockies! Well sort of.

Before starting a bicycle trip it is probably a good idea to have a bike. We had purchased 2 bikes on the recommendations of a bike shop in Vancouver to pick up when we arrived, I would not recommend anyone else trying this method, not a good idea. We thought it would save time organizing bikes before arriving but in the end it was a major hassle and cost us several days and a whole lot of stress.

Seeing as we are planning on spending the next few years riding, I had wanted to get steel framed bikes capable of touring around the world so we invested a little more cash than last time, but we still couldn’t afford the top of the range touring bikes so I was pretty happy when I found a store that had two of last years model bikes in our price range of under $1000 (bikes were $820).

leaving vancouver
leaving vancouver on the bikes

When we arrived though I soon realized that Kelly’s bike a Norco search S3 only had two chain rings at the front giving it a total of 18 gears…my bad I thought it had 3 at the front…sorry Kelly!

You like pushing up hills though right?? The bike shop had talked up how great these bikes were for touring and how they’d be perfect for what we needed them for, but really the gears on this bike were not exactly ideal for lugging a whole ton of shit through the rocky mountains and beyond and the shop should have been straight with us instead of trying to clear out old stock on a couple of tourists.

We persisted though, the shop swapped out the rear gears for something with a wider range, but on the day we left Vancouver it was clear it was not going to work, we made it 65kms to Kelly’s friend’s house near Abbotsford and she couldn’t get the bike up a hill so mountains were gonna be a pretty big issue! Cycling Vancouver to the Rockies – Kelly couldn’t even make it 100km. Something had to be done!

New day, new bike.

The next 2 days are a blur of stress, anger and frustration contacting the store, dicking around attaching and detaching crap to the bikes and eventually managing to exchange Kelly’s bike and pay the difference of about $450 to get this years model touring bike the same as mine (Brodie circuit) instead of a unsuitable cyclocross bike.

I’m sure there’s plenty of good cyclocross bikes for touring and I believe you can tour on just about anything, but as we were planning a pretty massive trip we wanted something better than we had last time. It was a frustrating experience and I could go into more depth about the shit that went on but it’s in the past now and thinking about it makes me want to curl up into a big shiny bald ball and cry my little peepers out so we’ll leave it there. We were just lucky that Kelly’s friend Kira is such a legend and gave up a whole day to take us back to Vancouver to sort it out.

brodie green bicycle circuit
Kelly’s new bike!

Vancouver to the Rockies – take two!

We greatly underestimated the sheer volume of shit that we had brought with us for this trip. It was ridiculous. The bikes were so heavily loaded up they were wobbling like a drunk cowboy at the Calgary stampede and still struggling to make it up hills, so over the next few weeks tough decisions were made and we both ended up donating various crap we could do without to people along the way. It’s still an ongoing process though, I feel like I have a lot more stuff than when we rode from France to China, but at least the bikes were actually up to the job!

After the initial stress and disappointment of starting the trip like that it felt great to finally be on our way plus we were riding through a place called Chiliwack so that cheered up my small childlike mind a bit. Spent a night wild camping next a river near Cultus lake and had all the old feelings of total freedom flooding back as we pitched our tent in a hidden little spot in the trees.

[ctt template=”8″ link=”mt45A” via=”yes” nofollow=”yes”]The bikes were so heavily loaded up they were wobbling like a drunk cowboy at the Calgary stampede[/ctt]

The tour had begun! Finally we were cycling from Vancouver to the Rockies!

In the morning I snapped my chain before we even left our little camping spot (first ever snapped chain for me!) and Kelly was stung by a wasp, but we weren’t gonna let it get us down goddammit!! Fixed up the chain and hit the road again passing through some beautiful B.C scenery at Bridal Veil falls, through the Othello Tunnels near Hope and camping next to a highway down an embankment hidden from sight.

People kept talking to us about the Coquihalla mountain pass and making us regret our lack of physical fitness and pre trip training as we pedaled through the rain towards this hilly beast. Our legs definitely got a little shock when we hit it, but memories of some of the horrendous climbs we’d tackled through central Asia and Europe made it seem not so bad.

The rain persisted on and off so we were going from shivering and wet one minute to baking and sweaty the next having to constantly put on or take of layers of clothes. We cruised through valleys and mountains and passed through cool little towns on our trip through Kamloops to Merrit camping in hillside scrub, rest stop areas barely hidden from view and one particularly stunning spot on our way to Kamloops next to a river with perfect views on our little tents’ doorstep!

After about a week we decided a shower was in order as we had various plant life growing on us and had begun to smell like a French cheese boutique.

We found an airBNB in Clearwater to escape the still constant rain and scrub ourselves raw. Felt nice to be indoors and have access to a kitchen, as our stove had died on us a few days previously and we had to buy a tiny emergency twig-burning stove to heat up our meager rations of oatmeal and pasta. Also felt nice to fill my insides with sweet delicious beer!

Spent a few hours checking out some amazing waterfalls in the nearby Wells Gray provincial park with our awesome Airbnb owner and then hit the wet road again! Climbed higher heading towards the rockies and smashed out our first 100+ km day of the trip so far through an isolated stretch heading to mosquito capital of the known universe, Blue river BC.

Our Airbnb host in Clearwater who took us to Wells Gray Park
Our Airbnb host in Clearwater who took us to Wells Gray Park

Mosquito Flats

As we pulled into the small mountain town looking for a clearing in the forest to duck into and set up camp, A large friendly black bear appeared casually chilling on the side of the road roughly 4 meters from Kelly so we decided perhaps this was not the ideal spot to rest our weary bones for the night and continued on into the town. I asked a couple with a young daughter if they thought we would get into trouble if we set up a tent in the local park next to a lake, but turns out they weren’t locals either and didn’t have a clue.

The Spanish couple quickly offered us a backyard to camp in overnight and we were set…apparently the town had been having a bit of a bear problem recently with a particularly big grizzly stalking the area and they showed us the large trailer parked across the street from their house with a huge metal bear cage trap. Felt a bit better knowing we were near a house at least and we could store our food inside to hopefully keep the furry little buggers from eating our tent and us.

We had no encounters with Yogi or his friends that night, but my god the mosquitos were savage! We had originally thought we’d get to hang out and practice our now terrible Spanish over a coffee with the nice couple that saved us, but instead were forced to rip everything off the bikes and dive head first into the tent as quickly as possible before we were sucked dry of all our precious blood that we need for living and stuff. Thousands of them. Thousands of the horrible little shits. Looking up in the tent at the outside was terrifying; it was a covered black mass of swarming bloodthirsty winged shit heads. I already felt a bit dizzy from dehydration, I think if anymore had munched me I probably would have passed out.

It was onwards and upwards.

We had another big day with stunning scenery and pedaling close to 100km getting to Valemount to stay with our first Warmshowers hosts (like couchsurfing for cyclists) Tom and Peggy. Was great meeting this couple who had an incredible amount of experience cycle touring all over the world for years, plus Tom was a pretty handy guy who brought our poor little stove ‘Colin’ back from the dead! He could no longer simmer and only functioned in the ‘off’ or ‘burn the absolute shit out of everything’ modes…but he was alive! Pretty stoked we could cook food and boil water for coffee again without scavenging for dry twigs when it had been raining solidly since we arrived.

Spent a nice evening with Tom and Peggy chatting and getting lots of helpful tips about the route and then had a leisurely 40km day started off by gorging ourselves at the local Swiss bakery before setting up camp in one of those weird ‘non wild camp on the side of the road’ official government run campsite thingos near Mt Robson. Campsites with showers, toilets and water?!?! Who knew!

cycling the rockies, VANCOUVER TO THE ROCKIES
Cycling the Rockies

It continued to piss down solidly over the course of that day and the coming days as we finally finished cycling from Vancouver to the Rockies!!!

To celebrate cycling from Vancouver to the Rockies I decided it would be a grand idea to clip a guard rail with my pannier while trying to take a photo, throw my camera several feet in the air into the middle of the road and crash off the bike carving a chunk of flesh the size of a late night drunken kebab out of my ankle. I will admit, not my finest idea, but I like it to mix things up while cycling to keep it fresh. It felt like we needed some more excitement and our luck had got better since the start of the trip so I didn’t want us getting too cocky.

My ankle looked pretty nasty as I had carved it up on the front gear cogs forcing a kilo or so of black greasy shite and grit into the wound so we stopped on the side of the road to rub my dirty gash clean(ish) with some alcohol wipes…not a fun time for me to be honest. In hindsight, I most definitely needed stiches as this occurred roughly three weeks ago now and it still keeps opening up to let the inside of my ankle say hello to the world and give my blood a chance to explore Canada, but we were nowhere near a doctor or hospital and were also in a bit of a race to get to Calgary in time for the stampede so didn’t want to have to take a break off the bikes. Yeah I’m an idiot.

[ctt template=”8″ link=”f8f93″ via=”yes” nofollow=”yes”]Yeah I’m an idiot.[/ctt]

So we had made it!!!

After a shaky start and some ups and downs we were finally entering the Rockies! We had made it from Vancouver to the Rockies! We had started to feel better about the cycle trip and our chances of survival (despite my little tumble) and were slowly getting back into the swing of things after nearly two years since the last trip and felt ready to invade the Canadian Rockies like Genghis Khan on a pushbike! So we made it Vancouver to the Rockies.

 

Interested to know what countries we’ve rode through on the bikes? Check out our Country Tracker to find out, and create your own country tracker to see how many countries you’ve been to.

Cycling the Bow Valley Parkway and beyond

Cycling the Bow Valley Parkway

Kelly’s write up of cycling the Bow Valley Parkway, from Lake Louise to Calgary during Summer in 2016. Click here to read Michael’s write up about riding to Calgary.

From Lake Louise we cycled the Bow Valley Parkway to Banff, then the Legacy Trail to Canmore and hopped on the Trans-American to Calgary. Completing our cycle through the mountains to the start of the Prairies for the next step of our cycle across Canada.

Lake Louise

Lake Louise was beautiful, however it was hardly comparable to some of the beautiful lakes we seen along the pathway. We also didn’t realise that Lake Louise was actually situated about 4km away – up a steep mountain. So on our rest day we tackled yet another mountain climb. My legs were not impressed. Of course it rained as soon as we started cycling, and for the whole time we were at the lake. That didn’t stop tonnes of people visiting the lake. Lake Louise was the second busiest place we had been on the trip. The first was the Icefields Center – avoid at all costs!

lake louise Cycling the Bow Valley Parkway
Made it across the Icefields Parkway and to Lake Louise

Bow Valley Parkway

After our “not-so-much-of-a-rest” rest day, the plan was to head to Banff via the Bow Valley Parkway. The cycle was awesome. There were plenty of stops along the way, and the scenery was beautiful. Once we arrived into Banff we got onto the Legacy Trail (a cycle path from Banff to Canmore), and headed into the town. Banff looked awesome. So bike friendly, with cycle paths and bike stations (pump, bike stand, tools) set up all over the place. I could definitely live there. We had already made arrangements to stay with some warmshowers’ hosts in Canmore for a couple of nights, so after a brief lunch stop in Banff, we headed back on the Legacy Trail and cycled the rest of the way to Canmore. The cycle path was great – I wish all highways had a cycle path following the same route.

Canmore

Canmore was just as impressive and bike friendly as Banff. We even managed to arrive just before the rain started. Jeff (our warmshowers’ host) met us at Tim Hortons’ and he took us to his beautiful house. Another rest day and we needed it. Jeff, Paula and Peter were amazing hosts, and helped us a lot with planning the next stage of our trip.

After resting up and drying off for a couple of days we were ready to head to Calgary – just in time for the stampede (which we had written off a long time ago, due to all the issues we had right at the start of the trip). Jeff had just gotten back from cycling a section of the Continental Divide and asked if he could join us for the first 20km of our day – of course, we weren’t going to say no. I’m quite social on the bike and enjoy cycling with others. Jeff cycled with us, in the rain to Exshaw, then we said “goodbye” and cycled on (still in the rain).

Our love host in Canmore!
Our love host in Canmore!

Highway 1: The Trans-American

We got on the highway to Calgary at Seebe and continued the long day cycling, in the rain. We stopped at Chiniki gas station for coffee (and demolished half a kilo of granola) and met some friendly locals from the reserve. After resting, chatting and drying off a bit, we continued on. Considering we were on the highway for so long, the cycle was actually quite enjoyable, and we were smashing out the kilometres, even in the rain.

We got to the turn off just before Springbank, less than 20km from Calgary and the rain got heavy. I could barely see a meter in front of me, which meant motorists could probably not see us at all.  So, we pulled off the highway to find some shelter. It was a Saturday and there were some markets on (well, packing up) at the Wild Wild West Event Centre, so we headed there in the hope to find some shelter. Luckily, though the markets had finished, we were able to dry off a bit. One of the lady’s from the stall even took pity on us and gave us a bunch of carrots. After about half an hour, the rain cleared up and we felt like it was safe enough to continue cycling.

[ctt template=”8″ link=”AN9ZK” via=”yes” nofollow=”yes”]One of the lady’s from the stall even took pity on us and gave us a bunch of carrots.[/ctt]

Calgary

We arrived into Calgary, the highway traffic got crazy, there were loads of road works, no hard shoulder and we couldn’t get off the damn road. Eventually we took the first exit (which lead to a steep hill) just as the sun came out. We had booked into an Airbnb as we knew accommodation would be crazy due to the Calgary Stampede. After a few wrong turns we found the place, just as the rain started again.

Another rest day off the bikes – and we already felt like we needed it! Next destination: the Prairies!

Cycling in Jasper and the Icefields Parkway

Cycling in Jasper and the Icefields Parkway, Cycling the rockies and the icefields parkway

Cycling in Jasper and the Icefields Parkway: Jasper National Park

We had a good start to cycling in Jasper and the Icefields Parkway, or not. Not long after leaving our campsite at Mt Robson, Michael took a fall off the bike. The first fall of the trip (and hopefully the last)! I didn’t even notice he wasn’t behind for a good 10 minutes. When I did finally noticed, I stopped and waited… and waited. Eventually he caught up – bloody oozing out of his ankle. Apparently he fell while trying to take photos going down the hill. You think he would learn his lesson here and stop doing that. No, the idiot still takes photos while cycling along, down steep hills and mountain passes.

Finally we made it to Jasper! We were super excited for our first rest day in about 10 days. And what better way to celebrate than with an Indian dinner buffet. Carb loading in preparation for cycling in Jasper and the Icefields Parkway.

While planning our cycle route through Jasper, Banff and the Rockies, I had all the intentions of doing some hiking. Well that completely went out the window when we actually arrived in the national parks. We were totally exhausted. There was no way we were doing all the hiking I had planned. To be honest – I don’t know what I was thinking. With that being said, we did attempt a couple of really small (2-3km) hikes. That was about all we could manage.

alberta vancovuer to the rockies

Icefields Parkway

After resting up for a day (yes, only 1 day), we headed off on our first day of cycling in Jasper and the Icefields Parkway. I was told we should take the quieter 93A instead of the main highway. We did. There wasn’t much of a hard shoulder, but it was quiet… and very hilly. I wasn’t prepared for the hills, but was still happy to be off the main highway. After cycling for about an hour we spotted a bear (not sure what type), dart across the road.

Eventually we made it to Athabasca Falls and were greeted with hundreds of tourists, including a friendly group of cyclists that were also cycling the Icefields Parkway, as a part of a 4 day fundraiser. I was quite jealous of their support vehicle at that stage – their super light road bikes and lack of weight from panniers (plus the extra training they probably did), meant they flew passed us on several hills.

From Athabasca Falls we were back on the 93 – the main route most people took when cycling in Jasper and the Icefields Parkway. We were headed for Sunwapta Falls. Just about 5km from the falls is started to bucket down. Luckily just before the turn off to the falls there was a restaurant that served yummy brownies – it would have been a crime not to stop and treat ourselves to a brownie, plus a hot drink. When we were finished, the rain had stopped and the sun had come out – maybe our luck had finally changed?

[ctt template=”8″ link=”3Ub5f” via=”yes” nofollow=”yes”]It would have been a crime not to stop and treat ourselves to a brownie[/ctt]

It was a slow cycle day after that – the kilometers seemed to drag. We finally dragged ourselves into Jonas Campsite, just as the rain started to pour again. We were exhausted and I was super worried about the following day’s climb up Sunwapta Pass.

Sunwapta Summit

It rained throughout the night and into the next morning. We wanted to get an early start to make it over the first pass.

It was cold and it was extremely wet but, we were in pretty good spirits. The climb up the pass was not fun, but it wasn’t as bad as what I was expecting. When we finally made it to the Icefields Parkway we were happy and very hungry.

We decided to hike to the Toe of the Athabasca Glacier, and then head to the Icefields Center to treat ourselves to some decent food. The short hike to the glacier was great – though very busy! The Icefields Center however, was a nightmare! The biggest tourist trap ever. Being on a bike really distances you from the crowds of tourists that you sometimes even forget that it is really busy and it is the peak season. Though we did see tonnes of cars, RVs and buses drive pass, it’s easier to tune them out, that compared to crowds of people. Sadly, we skipped our treat at the center as we wanted to get out of there as soon as possible – we even passed up a lunch buffet (which is very unlike us).

Cycle tourists were certainly in abundance, cycling in Jasper and the Icefields Parkway. During our entire 7 month cycle from France to China we met about 5 other cycle tourists. Along the Icefields Parkway we must have seen an excess of 50 cyclists. It made the whole experience a completely different one, and I welcomed exchanging stories and tips with other cyclists – something we rarely had the opportunity to do.

cycling the rockies
Cycling from Jasper to Canmore

Banff National Park

The rain continued as we made it to Wilcox pass and we struggled to find somewhere (with a shelter) to stop for lunch. We decided to start the descent into Banff National Park, hoping that it wouldn’t be as cold and wet further down in the valley – unfortunately we were wrong. I was shitting myself throughout the steep descent down. The hard shoulder was almost non-existent, the road wasn’t good and visibility from the rain were not great. That along with the busy road made it not the funniest cycle. On top of that, when we made it to the valley it was still raining and we still couldn’t find anywhere dry to stop for lunch. We ended up creating a shelter in amongst a bunch of trees.

After lunch we cycled on a bit and the rain finally stopped. The last 15km of the day we could actually enjoy the beautiful valley and creeks. We decided to call it in early and stop at Rampart Creek campsite to get an early night and try and dry off some of our gear. I definitely appreciated the rest.

Bow Lake Summit

Michael and I woke feeling a bit more rested, and a bit more positive about the cycle – even though we woke up to another wet morning. The plan was to conquer the Bow Lake Summit and head to Lake Louise to camp for a couple of nights.

Cycling the Bow Lake Summit to Lake Louise was my favourite cycle day of the trip so far. The rain even cleared up for a bit, which meant we could enjoy the mountains and alpine lakes. The first stop was Saskatchewan Crossing. We just hit our first 1000km mark that morning, and wanted to celebrate with a hot drink and of course a brownie (you’ve probably noticed a trend so far). The crossing was super overpriced but, I guess that’s what you expect for a tourist stop.

Next was Waterfowl Lake, where we stopped for a short break and a lot of photos. Then it was onto the pass. The climb was nowhere near as bad as I had expected, almost enjoyable. After the pass we pull into Bow Lake, next to an old lodge (which had surprisingly ok priced food and drinks) and stopped for lunch. It started to rain again, but even in the rain it was hard to not appreciate the beauty of the area – plus, the rain kept the tourists away (well some of them). Of course, we stopped into the lodge, for another hot drink and this time a cookie (they didn’t sell brownies).

bow lake: the rockies
The Rockies were absolutely stunning – despite all the rain!

Lake Louise

The rest of the day was stunning. Eventually we got off the Icefields Parkway and rolled into the village at Lake Louise. Luckily I’d already booked a site at the campsite, as when we got there we discovered it was fully booked and they had no walk-in sites.

We felt pretty accomplished after cycling in Jasper and the Icefields Parkway, but also very happy to finally have another day off the bikes. Next on the agenda was the Bow Valley Parkway! Fingers crossed we spot some bears!

Gear List

Cycling the Bow Valley Parkway

This gear list will be updated regularly during our cycle trips (sorry, we’re not that organised to have pretty photos to include in the post – but we’re working on it). Michael is also working on some gear reviews to add to this section. Watch this space!

USA and Latin America: 2017

The Bikes

  • We stuck with our Brodie Circuits (2016 & 2015) that we cycled across Canada with. They got a bit of a tune up over our break, but that’s about it (Gear Review).

Bike Gear:

    • Brooks Saddles B67 S Bicycle Saddle & B67S saddles (Amazon)
    • Topeak uni super tourist DX rear racks
    • SCHWALBE Marathon Tyres. Made it across Canada with these tyres – Kelly didn’t get a flat for the entire 7000km. Michael got about 4 flats in total. (Amazon)
    • MEC panniers aquanot roll top 20l pannier.
    • Soma front pannier rack (on Kelly’s bike).
    • Blackburn FL1 low rider rack (on Kelly’s bike).
    • Homemade dry bag front panniers
    • Topeak compact handlebar bag (on Michael’s bike).
    • Blackburn Outpost Top Tube Bag (on Michael’s bike). (Amazon)
    • Blackburn Outpost Cargo Bottle Cage (x3) (Michael’s bike) – Michael uses these to hold his growlers. (Amazon)
    • Cateye volt 400 front light (on Michael’s bike).
    • Knog Blinder mob the face rear light (on Michael’s bike) (Amazon)
    • GOAL ZERO Rock Out 2 Portable Speakers . usb chargeable Portable speakers that can be attached to the front of the bike. (AmazonGear Review)
    • Cateye Padrone bike computer  (Amazon)
gear
Gear photo for our 2017 leg – yes, that’s a bottle of rum!

Camping Gear:

  • MSR WhisperLite International Stove, plus the Service Kit and 1L fuel bottle. (Amazon)
  • Mountain Hardwear Bozeman Flame 20 Sleeping Bag (Amazon)
  • MSR Elixir 2 tent & footprint, with MSR compression tent bag (Amazon)
  • Therm-a-Rest Prolite Plus and Silk sleeping bag liners. (Amazon)
  • GSI halulite 1.8L boiler (Amazon)
  • Light My Fire: Titanium Sporks (Amazon)
  • Platypus Gravity Works 2L Water Filter (Amazon)
  • Bear Spray (Amazon)

Other Gear:

  • Yamaha Guitalele. A new edition to the bikes – Michael’s baby, the guitalele! (Amazon)
  • Klean Kanteen 1.2L Stainless Steel Growler (x2) (Amazon/Gear Review)
  • LifeStraw Go Water Bottle with Integrated 1000-Liter LifeStraw Filter. These straws are amazeballs! Much easier and quicker than using purification tablets or a steripen. (AmazonGear Review)
  • Nalgene Wide Mouth Water Bottle. We picked the wide mouth water bottle purely because we have a coffee plunger that fits into it (we do like our coffee). (Amazon)
  • Kindle E-reader 6″. These are great for travelling and cycle touring. Super light, great battery life and you can store hundreds of books on it. (Amazon)
  • Travel Towel. (Amazon)
  • GoPro Hero2 Camera. Who doesn’t want to record their trip? GoPro is perfect for filming while cycling. (Amazon)
  • Mooncup. A ‘must have’ for any female cyclist, especially those cycling in remote areas. (Amazon)
  • Duct Tape – don’t leave home without it! (Amazon)
  • First aid kit
  • Toiletries (plus multi-sink plug and biodegradable soap flakes).
  • Clothes in Compression Bags, plus several dry bags.

Canada: 2016

The Bikes:

  • Norco Search S3 (2015) chromoly frame cyclocross/touring bike. Kelly’s new bike! This bike is a total beast and should handle awesomely well on and off road with disc brakes and 30 speeds to choose from when climbing gigantic mountains! Brodie Circuit (2016). Kelly’s second bike of the trip (after day 2 she decided the Norco wasn’t up for cycle touring and exchanged it for a Brodie).
  • Brodie Circuit (2015). 4120 Chromoly frame touring bike. Michael’s new baby! Classic style touring bike with bar end shifters and disc brakes. We are both yet to ride these bikes as they are waiting patiently for us to pick them up in Canada and ride them around the world!

Bike Gear:

  • Origin8 Classique Cargo HD Front Rack. I’ve been using this monster on my commuter bike and it’s a bomb proof solid piece of gear. Opting to store the tent, sleeping bag, sleeping matt and tarp in a large dry bag on this bad boy. This is so I can load all of the sleeping things on the front rack last making it easier to pack the rear panniers and backpack in the morning before taking the tent down. That’s the theory anyway. (Amazon / Gear Review)
  • Brooks Saddles B67 S Bicycle Saddle & B67S saddles (Amazon)
  • Filzer PR-2 rear pannier rack for the 2015 Brodie, the 2016 Brodie came with a fitted rear pannier rack.
  • SCHWALBE Marathon Tyres. We’ve heard rumours of cyclists travelling for thousands and thousands of kilometres on these tyres, without experiencing any punctures. We’re willing to find out for ourselves, whether this is true. (Amazon)
  • Cateye volt 400 front light.
  • MEC panniers aquanot roll top 20l pannier.
  • EVO Low Rider Fork Mounted Front Rack (Amazon / Gear Review)

Camping Accessories:

  • MSR WhisperLite International Stove, plus the Service Kit. (Amazon)
  • MSR Hubba Hubba Tent (2 person). I love this tent! It’s super light, it’s super strong and it’s quite spacious. It’s probably my favourite piece of gear we own. (Amazon/ Gear Review)
  • MSR Hubba Hubba NX Footprint. Not only does it protect our tent, it also doubles up as a picnic mat and shade cloth. (Amazon)
  • LifeStraw Go Water Bottle with Integrated 1000-Liter LifeStraw Filter. These straws look amazeballs! Much easier and quicker than using purification tablets or a steripen (though we’ll be taking our SteriPen as well). (Amazon/ Gear Review)
  • Mountain Hardwear Bozeman Flame 20 Sleeping Bag (Amazon)
  • Therm-a-Rest EvoLite Regular. We recently upgraded to these more comfortable sleeping mats. They weigh slightly more, but it’s a trade off we’re willing to take. (Amazon)
  • Silk sleeping bag liner.

Other gear:

  • GOAL ZERO Rock Out 2 Portable Speakers . Portal speakers that can be attached to the front of the bike. (Amazon/ Gear Review)
  • Kindle E-reader 6″. These are great for travelling and cycle touring. Super light, great battery life and you can store hundreds of books on it. (Amazon)
  • Travel Towel. (Amazon)
  • GoPro Hero2 Camera. Who doesn’t want to record their trip? GoPro is perfect for filming while cycling. (Amazon)
  • Solar charger and power banks (Panasonic power bank).
  • Mooncup. A ‘must have’ for any female cyclist, especially those cycling in remote areas. (Amazon)
  • Nalgene Wide Mouth Water Bottle. We picked the wide mouth water bottle purly because we have a coffee plunger that fits into it (we do like our coffee). (Amazon)
  • Steripen Classic UV Water Purifierr. Beats iodine tablets or drops. (Amazon)
  • Duct Tape – don’t leave home without it! (Amazon)
  • First aid kit and a lot of drugs.
  • Toiletries (plus, multi-sink plug, washing line, soap flakes).

France to China: 2014

As you can probably tell from this gear list, we were on quite a strict budget at the time. Since then we’ve upgraded a lot of this gear.

The Bikes:

  • Trek T30 Navigator bicycles (bought second hand): Cheap, second-hand, sturdy, but we loved them, and we had absolutely minimal problems with them. The worst thing that happened was a couple of punctures, a couple of blown tyres and a broken screw in the back rack. These bikes are solid! Unfortunately, we decided to sell them in Urumqi, China for $50, and I think we’re both regretting that decision now.

Bike Gear:

  • ebay specials’ panniers and tube bags: My panniers were held together solely by duct tape, by the time we reached China. (Amazon)
  • Home made handle bar bag: Made out of a 6-pack cooler bag.
  • The bikes came with racks and fenders.

Camping Gear and Everything Else:

  • Coleman Bedrock 2 tent.
  • Quechua sleeping bags and 3/4 sleeping mats
  • Steripen Classic UV Water Purifier. Beats iodine tablets or drops. (Amazon)
  • MSR PocketRocket Stove and cups, bowls and plates made from old Nutella and coffee containers. (Amazon)
  • Duct Tape – don’t leave home without it! (Amazon)
  • First aid kit and a lot of drugs.
  • Toiletries (plus, multi-sink plug, washing line, soap flakes).
  • GoPro Hero2 Camera. Who doesn’t want to record their trip? GoPro is perfect for filming while cycling. (Amazon)
  • Solar charger and power banks (Panasonic power bank).

Our Wish List

  • Surly Ogre, awesome mountain bike style touring bike or Trek 520 classic touring bike.
  • Garmin Edge 810 Cycling Computer GPS to stop us getting lost and stuff! (Amazon)

Cycling to the Canadian Rockies

Cycling to the Canadian Rockies

Kelly’s write up about cycling to the Canadian Rockies during our cross Canada cycle tour during Summer 2016. Click here to read Michael’s write up of cycling from Vancouver to the Rockies.

After Clearwater Michael and I were expecting several days of gruelling and constant climbing while cycling to the Canadian Rockies. It was actually nothing like we expected. Cycling from Clearwater to the mountains was still a challenge, but for reasons we hadn’t expected. The rain, the mosquitos and the traffic were just a few reasons!

We spent the first 2 days waiting for the climb to start. According to the map we had ascended, but we didn’t see how this was possible when it felt like we were on a constant, gradual decent. We decided to make the most of it and cycle some long days.

Avola

The stretch from Clearwater to Blue River, and Blue River to Valmount were LONG stretches of wilderness. It really began to feel like we were in the Canadian wilderness, and cycling to the Canadian Rockies’ terrain. There were only a handful of towns on the way to Valemount, and due to the marshy surroundings (think moose country), there weren’t many places to fill up the water bottles. About 65km outside of Clearwater we approached the small town, Avola. We decided to stop at the gas station to fill up our water bottles and buy some snacks.

The guy was a jerk and lied to us about the tap not working, then didn’t let us in the shop to buy anything. This completely took us back as everyone else was so friendly, plus it was a matter of safety. We later learnt he was a “world famous jerk” that hated everyone, especially cyclists. If you are heading through Avola, the “World Famous burger shop” just around the corner is supposed to have friendly staff that also let you fill up your water bottles – so skip the gas station and head there instead.

cycling to the Canadian Rockies
Cycling to the Canadian Rockies

Blue River

We cycled our longest cycle day so far, 107km from Clearwater all the way to Blue River. The roads were good, with only one small 750m summit. We were planning on camping at the top of the summit; however unfortunately (or fortunately), I had my Dad’s worried voice in the back of my head. “There were some cyclists attacked by a bear near you, just last week.” “Just watch out for those bears.” “I don’t like the thought of all those bears in the area.” When cycling for long periods of time, you have a lot of thinking time, and in my delirious state I started to “see” bears everywhere, and didn’t feel comfortable camping in the wilderness, miles from anywhere. So, we cycled on.

Bear Country

We finally made it to Blue River several hours later. I pulled over at a gas station and tucked into the kilo jar of peanut butter I’d been carrying since the superstore at Kamloops. We started to investigate a place to pitch our tent, and considered perhaps camping behind the gas station. Suddenly, I realised I was face to face with a black bear – this time it wasn’t my imagination. The bear was only about 5m from me, just off the road. Instead of taking a photo, screaming or moving away, I stopped my bike and frantically started waving my hands around to get Michael’s attention. This of course, scared the bear off. I’ve never been that close to a wild bear before, but this one just looked like a giant teddy bear.

A bit worried about bears and still in need to find a campspot, we decided to head further into town (which was only about 4 streets wide). We stopped at the community park, to cook some dinner and discuss our options. We got chatting to a Spanish couple that had been living in Nicaragua and they told us we could camp in their garden, and could lock our food in their house. Great! As we set up camp, their daughter was telling us about the bear problem they have in town, and showed us the big bear trap that was opposite the house. As she was telling us about the bears, another problem arose – mosquitos, fucking loads of them!

bear trap Cycling to the Canadian Rockies
The bear trap!

The beginning of  mosquito invasion

We quickly unpacked, set up our tent, jumped in the tent and stayed there like prisoners. All this while the Spanish family walked around not at all phrased, leaving their doors and windows wide open and staring at us like were we a bit weird. We had a good night sleep, despite the mozzies… and no bear attack! The Spanish family even let us use the kitchen, and made us coffee – which I definitely needed.

I woke up that morning feeling dehydrated. My wrists, hands, thighs and knee were all throbbing, and the lack of rest days and long distances made me feel a completely drained. On top of this I now had hundreds of mozzie bites to deal with. Little did we know this was just the beginning of the mosquito invasion.

Valemount

Getting back on the bikes that morning was hard, but we knew it had to be done. We had arranged to stay with a warmshowers host in Valemount, and had 97km to cycle to get there. So, back on the long stretch of highway 5 wilderness (which was actually an amazingly beautiful stretch of road, with snow capped mountains, wild flowers and streams). Rest stops were now 90km apart and even pullovers were rare. Eventually we made it to Valemount and found our warmshowers hosts, Tom and Peggy. We had a wonderful stay, chatting mostly about cycle touring. It was nice to actually have a conversation with some people that didn’t think we were mad. They also knew exactly how we felt and what we were going through.

canadian rockies
In the back garden of the Spanish couple’s house in Blue River

Mount Robson (Cycling to the Canadian Rockies)

After leaving Valmount we had a couple of options, to camp at Mt Robson provincial park (the start of the Canadian Rockies), which meant a short day cycling only 40km, or cycling 100km to Lucerne campground, or 125km to Jasper. We decided to give ourselves a rest and camp at Mt Robson. We did plan on doing some short hikes in the park, however as soon as we arrived it started to rain, and didn’t stop. So we had a rather chilled afternoon of blog writing, reading and stretching.

Tomorrow, Jasper and the Canadian Rockies!